The view from the summit of this nearly 5700 m. pass
(Gondogoro La) is beyond description. In the opinion of
many, it is simply the finest mountain panorama in the
world. K-2, Broad Peak, the four Gasherbrums, Trinity
Peak, Laila Peak and a multitude of lesser pinnacles
touch the heavens all around you.
One must make an extra effort from Concordia to see
this spectacle. The trek to the top of the Gondogoro La
includes some 60 degree ice and snow slopes climbs that
require the use of an ice axe, crampons, harness,
helmet, ropes and carabiners.
The first leg of the trek takes us to Concordia (see
the K-2 Trek description for this trip segment). Upon
leaving Concordia we hike up to Ali Camp, situated above
the Vigne Glacier. The fluted and icy-white slopes of
Chogolisa tower in front of us, reminiscent of a wedding
gown, which gives Chogolisa? its other name: Bride
Peak.
At 2:00 A.M. we leave Ali Camp for Gondogoro La. We
trek in darkness across the Vigne Glacier, reaching the
bottom of the pass by early dawn at around 5:00 A.M. The
morning light illuminates the immense snow walls that
surround us. Ropes are fixed on the steepest slopes and
we begin our ascent; cresting the Gondogoro La by 9:00
A.M.
Slowly, the shark-like summit of mighty K-2 emerges
above a nearby ridge, crowning the scene with its
second-highest-mountain-on-the-planet glory. After a few
spellbinding minutes on top of Gondogoro La, we make a
steep descent into the glaciated valley utilizing
strategically-placed fixed ropes as aids.
By midday we reach Hispang, a beautiful campsite at
4833 m. We rest by a glacial stream surrounded by swaths
of colorful mountain flowers and gentle green slopes.
The next leg of our journey is three or four days of
easy trekking down to Hushe village.
On the way we pass shining alpine lakes, shepherds in
their meadows and ancient villages. Masherbrum (7821 m.)
shyly reveals her other side as we approach Hushe. Hushe
is eastern Baltistan's counterpart to Askolie, and home
to many of the best climbers and mountaineers in
Pakistan.
We meet our jeeps upon arrival, and wind above the
Shyok River and past the town of Khapulu. Here, we get
our last look at vistas unchanged since the time of
Marco Polo. After crossing the famous confluence of the
mighty Indus and Shyok Rivers, we continue through
landscapes of overwhelming scenic intensity to the busy
town of Skardu. Our passage out of the high mountains is
now complete, and our return to Islamabad is either by
road or air.
Detailed
Itinerary - Expedition to Gondogoro La
Day 1, Rawalpindi/Islamabad
Hotel, trek briefing. We will have ample time for
sightseeing and shopping in colorful old bazaars of
Rawalpindi and new markets of Islamabad. We may also
drive to the huge modern Faisal Mosque in Islamabad.
Day 2, Skardu ( 2,500? 8,200 ft.)
Hotel, flight. We will be on the most fantastic
commercial flight in the world taking us from Islamabad
to Skardu. If the weather is bad, we will drive in two
days on the famous KKH to Skardu.
Day 3, Askolie (3,300 m 10,825 ft)
Camp, jeep drive. It takes about six hours to drive
from Skardu to Askolie or near Askolie. The drive
through the Braldu Gorge is guaranteed to knock your
socks off!
Day 4, Korofong (3,500 m 11,480 ft)
Camp, trek begins. The walk from Askolie to Korofong
is on an easy gentle plain and can be done in 6 to 8
hours. We cross the snout of the Biafo Glacier on the
way. The first sight of the pinnacles of the Paiyu Group
is stunning.
Day 5, Bardumal (3,550 m 11,650 ft)
Camp, trek, river crossing. We follow the Braldu and
the Biaho rivers to a river's edge campsite. On the way
we have to cross the Domurda River coming out of Choktoi
and Panmah Glaciers. This crossing is done on a 'garari'
or on a bridge upstream. Depending upon the time it
takes for the crossing, the walk can take 8 hours or
more.
Day 6, Paiyu (3,666 m 12,025 ft)
Camp, trek. This takes about 6 hours of walking and
will give us our first sight of the mighty Baltoro
Glacier and the Trango and Cathedral Groups. Paiyu is
the last campsite before the Baltoro. Efforts are
underway to clear out the pollution and there has also
been a recent plantation of many trees in the area. The
walk follows the Biaho River all the way to Paiyu. The
campsite is perched high above the valley with excellent
views.
Day 7, Paiyu (3,666 m 12,025 ft)
Camp, rest day. Wash up, relax, read, climb on a
steep ridge behind the camp, sing and dance with the
porters! Depending upon the size of the party, goats or
a goat will be sacrificed and meat will be distributed
to the porters as a form of thanksgiving and to bring us
good luck on our next day's walk on the Baltoro.
Day 8, Khoburse (3,800 m 12,460 ft)
Camp, trek on Baltoro Glacier. Six to eight hours of
walking. A tough day as we climb on the rocky moraines
of the Baltoro, but the sight of Baltoro pinnacles and
Paiyu Peak is astounding! An earlier alternative
campsite is Liligo, but there is no water there. We will
cross some gushing streams on the way.
Day 9, Urdukas (3,950 m 12,950 ft)
Camp, Baltoro Glacier. A short 4 hour plus walk on
the rocky moraines and ablation valley of the Baltoro.
We will cross couple of icy side glaciers on the way and
may have our first sight of Broad Peak and the
Gasherbrums. The historical campsite is located on a
grassy slope high above the Baltoro and commands one of
the most intense mountain views in this world. The
campsite was prepared by the Duke of Abruzzi in the
beginning of this century.
Day 10, Goro (4,300 m 14,100 ft)
Camp, Baltoro Glacier. This is a tough day's walk on
the undulating Baltoro. However, the footing becomes
easy as the rocks become smaller and smaller as we move
up the Baltoro. It takes about 8 hours to get to Goro.
We walk right smack up the center moraine of the
Baltoro. As Masherbrum emerges on the right, it takes
our breath away and so does Gasherbrum 4 right in front
of us. Goro is a cold campsite! It has a great view of
the Muztagh Tower.
Day 11, Concordia (4,550 m 14,925 ft)
Camp, Baltoro Glacier. An easy 4 hour plus walk. As
we enter the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods and see K2
emerging on our left, we feel that we have arrived at a
very special place on the planet. For many, it is
lifelong goal and a pilgrimage to come here. A place of
superlatives and without any parallels!
Day 12, Concordia (4,550 m 14,925 ft)
Camp, rest, explore base camps. You can just sit and
watch K2 all day long and sip tea; which many have done
and have still not been able to fully get K2 in their
system! Or you can go on a long whole day tiring trip to
K2 Base Camp; or go the other way towards the Gasherbrum
peaks.
Day 13, Ali Camp (5,050 m 16,560 ft)
Camp, trek on Vigne Glacier. This is done in 6 plus
hours. The first few hours are difficult going as we get
on the Vigne Glacier from the Baltoro. Once on the Vigne
it is a straight forward uphill walk on a white hard
glacier; a big relief from the Baltoro. Ali Camp is
surprisingly a warmer camp when compared to Goro and
Concordia. It is located on a bird's nest like small
rocky area above the Vigne. The view looking down
towards Concordia and K2 is powerful.
Day 14, Hispang (4,833 m 15,850 ft)
Leave Ali Camp 2:00 a.m., cross Gondogoro La (5,700
m.), descend Gondogoro Glacier, arrive Hispang campsite
at 2:00 p.m., long tough day. Wow! What a day! This is
the apex of the whole trip. The first part of the walk
is in darkness over rocks. As we enter the upper Vigne
basin, we get on ice and snow. The route has been set
for us and we walk while being cautious of crevasses.
The ascent begins around 5:00 a.m. Ropes have been fixed
for us. We should be on top of the pass before 9:00 a.m.
All along we are helped and assisted by the staff.
Simply said: from Gondogoro La top, there is no other
comparable mountain view on this planet! The descent is
harder and steeper than the ascent. Ropes again have
been fixed and we basically descend about three pitches
with the help of ropes. Once again, we are assisted at
every step by the staff. Walking into the lush green
Hispang Campsite with a running shallow sandy stream is
like entering into heaven!
Day 15, Dalsam Pa (4,200 m 13,780 ft)
Camp, trek, Gondogoro Glacier. The most difficult
part of this leg is located where we get off the
Gondogoro Glacier and is a very small section of the
walk. For most of the way it is a gentle and beautiful
walk to Dalsam Pa. It takes about 4 hours.
Day 16, Saitcho (3,400m 11,150 ft)
Camp, trek. We slowly come back to civilization as we
travel through high villages and summer pastures of the
people from Hushe. There are awesome views of K6 and K7
towards our left on this walk. This takes about 4
hours.
Day 17, Saitcho (3,400 m 11,150 ft)
Camp, rest. You can play some volleyball in the heart
of the Karakorams here!
Day 18, Hushe (2,750 m.)
Camp, trek. We walk for about 3 hours and have
fantastic views of Masherbrum on the right. We have
successfully circumnavigated this mighty peak! Hushe is
a much more affluent village than Askolie.
Day 19, Skardu (2,500 m 8,200 ft)
Hotel, jeep drive. It takes about 8 hours on the jeep
to Skardu from Hushe. On the way we cross the Shyok
River near Khapulu. The rising sharp pinnacles from the
sandy bed of the Shyok is a powerful sight. Lower down,
crossing the Indus on Humayun Bridge at its famous and
historical confluence with the Shyok is also a
thrill.
Day 20,
Rawalpindi/Islamabad
Hotel, flight, trek debriefing.
Day 21, Rawalpindi/Islamabad
Extra 'cushion' day!
Note: Day 21 will be used as a 'cushion' day
in case of delays in travel due to weather, route
change, health, acclimatization issues during the trek,
etc.
This is a tentative itinerary.? For the
enjoyment of your trip a 'go with the flow' attitude is
necessary.? Many factors will influence your trip, such
as weather conditions, health, route conditions, etc.?
Please do not take this itinerary very seriously!